The first batch was an accident. A phone call, a pan left on, and a layer of chilli stuck and blackened on the bottom.

We were going to bin it. A spoonful on cheese on toast changed the plan: the burnt edge took the sugar down and added something smoky.

Now we burn it on purpose, on a tray under the grill, for eleven minutes. The smoked paprika is there to remind everyone that it is meant.